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Repairing existing window glazing

1. Remove as much glazing as you can without removing the sash.
2. Clean as much putty and paint off of your sash as possible.
3. Prime all bare wood using an oil base primer and let dry.
4. Replace all missing points.
5. Using generic latex window glazing, apply following the directions on the container.
6. Wait at least three days before painting.

To remove glazing and reglaze

One utility knife Flexible putty knife (I use a Hyde #2000) Retractable single edge razor knife Screw drivers Dental pick A carpenter's hammer A good-quality cartridge type respirator (I use a 3M brand) A denim apron or old clothes Latex gloves, non-sterile Safety glasses A high-quality paint brush A 3" sponge brush for the linseed oil	Linseed oil (raw or boiled) Top-quality oil base primer ($20+/gal) Top-quality paint of your choice ($25+/gal) Dap #33 glazing compound Push points Window cleaner copper scrub pad (won't scratch the glass) paper towels Coffee cans (for the oil and paints) Cotton rags

1. Remove sash from window frame.

If the glass is broken, cover it with tape so shards don't fall and cut you.

After you have removed all window dressing then remove both side bands (thin pieces of wood that line the inside of the window). Some are held on by screws and others by nails. If you see screws then remove them first. These side bands are almost always painted in, so mark the seams with the point of a sharp knife (don't cut in, just mark the paint where the side bands meet the window trim) and slide a putty knife between the trim and the side bands. Go slowly so as not to damage anything more then you need to. Use the hammer sparingly. Bend the bands in the middle and pull the bottom away from the window sill. If they are secured with nails then pull the nails through using the claw of the hammer. Push the claw around the nail and bend the hammer over. This will pull the nail through without ripping your wood work.

Now remove the bottom sash by picking it up a little ways and pull towards you. Remove the sash cords (if you have them) and let them dangle. The top sash may come out harder because it may be painted in. Remove the parting beads (little strips of wood in the middle of the jamb) on both sides of the window. Slowly work the bottom out and bend slightly towards the middle. Take the putty knife and work the bead away from the top sash. Be careful not to break them since they can be difficult to replace.

Now pull both sides of the sash towards you at the same time. If you pull one side too far you can twist the sash and break more glass. Remove the sash and the sash cords from the frame.

For casement windows:

Remove the inside trim carefully.
Remove the operating hardware on both the sash and the window.
Remove the hinges (some have hinge pins that can be removed).
Carefully remove the sash (most have metal weather-strip that will bend easily).

For fixed windows: (This can be the toughest!)

Using a utility and putty knife, cut around the exterior of this window, reaching in at least 1/2" to release any caulking or paint securing the sash.

Remove any interior trim covering the sash (if you see a crack around all four sides side of the sash then you don't need to remove any trim). Again using the utility and putty knife cut around the inside of the sash as deep as you can get without damaging the exterior trim to release the sash.

Dig around until you find the screws or nails securing the sash in the frame and remove them. Sometimes the interior trim is all that holds the sash in place. Carefully pry from the outside to remove. Don't twist the sash, this will break the glass.

2. Find a good comfortable place to work, outdoors or in the garage.

3. Preparing the window for glazing replacement.

4. Glazing removal.

Look at the bedding (the small amount of glazing compound on the interior side of the glass) and if it is loose and falling out carefully remove what you can with a dental pick. Take your Dap and carefully fill in the voids taking care not to push the glass out. This will need to set for three days or so to firm up. This helps in reducing glass breakage.

While removing the glazing compound, don't touch the glass directly with your putty knife. This causes pressure points on the glass and will break the glass.

Take your utility knife and find a bad spot in the glazing. Push the blade gently to the glass and pull towards you (yes that's right! towards you). Make sure your other hand is holding the sash well out of line of the knife. Be aware of your other hand at all times. If you have the strength in your wrist, you can also push the knife away from you but still keep that other hand out of the way. If the glazing is still stuck to the glass but not the wood then you can gently pry the glazing off. If it is still stuck then flood it with linseed oil and let it sit over night. This will soften the glazing.

Some glazing comes out very easy and others are hard but by working at it you can remove 99% of all of the old glazing.

Using a damp cloth pick up all of the glazing and dust and dispose of it. When you get done take your clothes off (outside your home), turn them inside out to keep from spreading lead dust and take them to your washer or bag them for the Laundromat and wash by themselves. The washer should run with one empty load after washing contaminated clothes to make sure it is clean.

5. Glass removal in 20th century windows.

Double check for points, then gently find a loose side of the glass and push up with your finger tips. If no loose side can be found then soak with linseed oil for a day and then remove.

Use your utility knife to remove the bedding materials.

6. Glass removal in pre-20th century windows.

Now disassemble your sash. The older sash are only held together with four wooden pins. Remove the pins (push them through with a small piece of wood about the same size) and gently push the sash apart (I recommend you number all of the parts first). Remove the glass (mark their locations also). Clean up the sash and reassemble ready for glazing.

7. Preparing the wood for glazing.

Using a razor knife remove all of the paint and old glazing from the old glass. The oil will soften it up. Remove as much loose material as you can and wipe clean.

8. Finally! Do the darn glazing.

If you have replaced broken glass then make sure the glass shelf within the sash is clear of all debris and old points. Using your thumb fill this shelf at a 45 degree angle with glazing compound to form the bedding. Set the glass onto the glazing and gently push the glass down starting at the bottom of the glass and then walking your fingers around the outside. Go around the glass four or five times until the glazing has been squished out of the bottom and the shelf can no longer be seen (if you push too hard you can break the new glass). Install at least two points per side on the glass (on bigger windows points should be set every 8" or so). If the shelf is narrow the points may not stick in far enough to be covered by the top glazing. Just make sure you prime and paint that exposed metal.

Now for the outside glazing: take a handful of glazing compound and knead it in your hands. Using your thumb push the glazing into the opening. Use short pushes to fill all voids in and around the glass. Once a side is filled take your putty knife, holding it almost flat, and push the glazing into the void drawing the knife towards you. If you don't like what you see don't be afraid to remove the glazing and do it over again.

Repair (smooth) your glazing corners with the putty knife.

9. Curing the glazing and painting.